Multimeters are used by electricians primarily to check current, voltage, continuity and resistance. A reliable, quality meter with high input impedance is the electrician’s most important tool, but even a hobbyist can benefit greatly from a basic test meter where accuracy is not critical.
There’s a huge variety of multimeters on the market and many factors to consider, such as category rating, features and of course price. While you shouldn’t leave yourself short, you don’t need to go over the top either.
This site provides unbiased advice to help you research and choose which multimeter to buy. We cover many brands and their models, with descriptions of key features, specifications, and the pros and cons of a given device.
|BRAND / MODEL
|Data Logging DMM
|BK Precision 2709B
|Data Logging DMM
|Fluke 279 FC
|Thermal Imaging DMM
– prices may fluctuate
Examples of some highly rated multimeters
Here are some of the most popular multimeters on the market today that are worth a look:
Budget, starter meter
The INNOVA 3320 – also known as the Equus 3320 – is one of the best selling multimeters of ANY category. Produced by well known US automotive firm INNOVA, it is a low price device with good specs. Chiefly, these include the ability to auto-range and a good battery tester.
Voltage can be tested to 600V (AC and DC) and there are also amperage ranges (DC to 10A) as well as a healthy resistance range and continuity/diode checks. Its dedicated battery tester is very useful, pre-loading circuits to 1.5V, 6V, 9V and 12V and featuring status LEDs.
It is well built – though not as sturdy as the big name brands – and has distinctive, side-on lead storage, a fold-away kickstand and a hanging strap.
The INNOVA 3320 is best when working on smaller projects, for diagnosing vehicle electrical faults especially, yet struggles on power circuits; its AC current range only goes to 200mA. The display is clear, albeit without a backlight. Auto-range and continuity check performance might be a bit slow for some, but it’s a good deal for around $20 nonetheless.
One of the best buys in the $50 range, the Extech EX330 is another excellent seller. An American-made, mid-level multimeter, it boasts a great feature-set and is a solid, compact device able to handle systems to category level III.
Both the voltage and current scales are generous, measuring to 600V and to 10A in AC and DC ranges respectively. It also has milliamp and micro-amp ranges, so is good for electronics and HVAC jobs. You can also measure capacitance – from 4nF to 200µF – and there is a non-contact voltage detector and even a temperature input with results displayed in Fahrenheit and Celsius.
There are several modes, too, such as a relative function to compare readings, and a range button that lets you go between auto and manual ranging. An automatic power-down feature saves battery life. Good for testing domestic and commercial electrics.
Standard, budget-midrange data logger
The fabled UNI-T UT61E from Asian brand Uni-Trend remains a favorite for many ham radio enthusiasts as well as electricians. A multimeter-cum-data logger, it is quite well built despite the low price point and is praised for being able to perform fast continuity checks.
Not the best input protection and quite slow to refresh rate, but it does also have a hi-count display, albeit one without a backlight. You can log all sorts of signals with this and transfer to computer, plus electronics buffs might note it defaults to DC.
Fairly accurate. Just stay away from high energy tasks.
Compact, higher end
This mid- to –high-level meter has been doing the rounds for a number of years and has more recently joined up with the EEVBlog brand to produce an updated device fit for more demanding tasks.
It is one of the best Asian-made multimeters on the market today, with great specs and accuracy and, more importantly, good safety ratings. It can test to 1000V and to 10A (continuous) and can also measure capacitance, frequency, micro-amps and temperature fairly accurately.
There is also a voltage sensor, an AutoV setting for picking up AC or DC voltage, and a Max/Min/Avg mode. The screen is nice and large, with a resolution to 6,000 counts and a generous backlit screen that stays on for minutes at a time!
You can measure everything from flame sensors in HVAC systems to variable speed motor drives courtesy of the True RMS response. Ghost voltages can be eliminated on the low impedance setting.
This meter is nice to use and look at, appealing to everyone from radio enthusiast to electricians and those who dabble in electronics. Brymen are especially noted for input protection, approaching the level incorporated in the top brands, like Fluke and Gossen. Although more expensive than most in this price range, the EEVBlog Brymen BM235 is a good money-saving alternative.
Standard, full range, high quality
Around $300 (watch for deals)
You can’t go wrong with this one. It is one of the leading meters from Fluke’s considerable arsenal and, in our humble opinion, is one of the best multimeters ever made. It’s a nice size, for one, and boasts a good complement of test ranges along with high levels of accuracy.
This is a CAT-IV-rated meter that is especially good in industry for diagnosing machine faults. It is True RMS and has a temperature input, though there is no micro-amps range.
The 177 has a solid look and feel and comes with Fluke’s vaunted auto-hold feature, as well as a smoothing mode, Max/Min and closed-case calibration. This is a rugged, reliable, accurate and fast device. It is pricier than most multimeters from other brands that may offer similar specs, but is sure to last for many years.
Full size, high quality
Around $350-400 (can often get deals with extras)
The Fluke 87 is about as good as it gets in the world of multimeter design and testing. This device has been around for a number of years – currently on version V – and is well noted for accuracy and reliability.
This is one robust cookie, has most test features you would need, and comes with wide scales and high levels of resolution. It is very fast in both auto-ranging and when performing continuity checks and has very good input protection. Well worth the money.
One up from the 87V is the Fluke 87V Max. Essentially the same meter, it features additional protection and is watertight and dustproof, while running on AA batteries. See here for the review…
Full size, higher end
If you’re all Fluke’d out but are after an equally good meter, you can’t go far wrong with anything that Gossen puts out.
A high end brand out of Bavaria, Germany, their METRALINE series of multimeters are more affordable than the norm they produce.
The MetraHit World has some neat features, such as auto-lead safety which prevents users from plugging in incorrectly, long battery life, great accuracy and very tough build quality.
There are several well known brands that produce various classes of multimeter. Here are some of the most common ones:
The Fluke Corporation is without a doubt the number one manufacturer today, and arguably since its inception. They are the default, go-to brand with a large amount of high quality testers for most tasks. Reliability, accuracy and attention to detail are all tenets of the Fluke brand, and they lead the way on innovation.
Fluke multimeters are also stylish and hard-wearing – tested to the nth degree at their onsite testing and calibration facility – and conform to rigid standards. They produce a long list of high quality digital multimeters (DMM), from good, entry level units to super-accurate tools for the service technician.
Fluke also produces an impressive number of other measuring tools, including clamp meters, insulation testers and thermal image condition-monitoring equipment.
Though Fluke has a budget in mind for a given product – as with any brand – the focus is on producing an item to exacting specs and then setting the price. As such, they are a premium manufacturer, with prices from around $130; the cheaper, entry-level 101 being the exception. Compared with most others, they are expensive, but they last… my Fluke 73 (bought in the early 1990s) is still going!
This Taiwanese manufacturer is an excellent alternative to the higher end brands, like Fluke, Gossen or Agilent. Although more pricey than a lot of the mid-level brands, they have focused on producing solid multimeters with excellent input protection. Good screens, features and accuracy are typical hallmarks of Brymen quality, with the compact BM235 and BM257 being especially popular. In the USA, Brymen multimeters are typical sold through Greenlee.
Amprobe has been inventing and manufacturing electrical test products for generations. They have one of the largest selections of multimeters and amp clamp meters in the market and are a good mid-range alternative. Their specialty is clamp meters (since they invented them), but they also produce a wide variety of very useful multimeters. The AM-500 Series covers most applications.
Extech Instruments is another respected US brand of quality handheld test and measuring equipment. Although not as high spec, their multimeters are nonetheless reliable and innovative, often incorporating extra features and boasting a rugged quality. One of their most popular is the excellent EX330 – a small meter with a big feature-set. The EX363 is a good HVAC option.
Klein is a widely recognized, privately owned US firm that manufactures durable hand tools and a range of multimeters. The Klein MM1000 Electricians Multimeter and more budget friendly Klein MM200 are among their most popular. They also produce low impedance DMMs, dedicated HVAC meters, and electrical test kits.
Based out of Irvine, California, INNOVA Electronics (parent firm: Equus) produces multimeters and other diagnostic test tools mostly for the car servicing industry. They are not high spec as Fluke, nor need to be, with less emphasis on mains current testing, ruggedness and overload protection.
Their well priced 3300 series of test meters is in the $15 to $50 range. The 3320 model is especially popular, with such features as auto ranging and a dedicated battery ‘load’ checker, good for diagnosing auto faults.
Agilent is one of only a few brands that vies with fluke in producing high end equipment. Also a US firm, created by Hewlett Packard, their focus is mainly high tech laboratory-based equipment; with sister firm Keysight producing the multimeters. Their tools are typically very precise and accurate, such as the excellent U1253B, which is noted for its 50000-count, organic LED display. Prices are in the Fluke range.
There’s a glut of Chinese-based makers of electrical measuring equipment nowadays, many of which churn out junk. However, there are a few notable exceptions; the Tekpower brand being one of them. They make usable analog and digital multimeters that are quite sturdy and can handle most tasks.
Most are in the low- to mid-budget range and often have some decent features. The TP9605BT is a useful data logging multimeter with Bluetooth capability, for instance, and which can also measure current up to 10 amps.
Another of the better quality Chinese brands, Mastech is based out of Shenzhen and has prices similar to Tekpower. They produce scores of devices, from environmental measuring equipment to useful multimeters like the MS8268. This popular unit has the electrical functionality of a standard DMM at a lower price, while others like the MS8229 can measure light, sound, humidity and temperature.
Hong Kong firm Uni-Trend churns out acceptable quality devices for the money. They have a big fan base among electricians and ham radio hobbyists alike. While they may not offer the input protection and build quality of others, they put out very usable meters, including good data loggers. The hi-res UNI-T UT71E is an okay all-rounder with data logger built in.
Etekcity is an online retailer of consumer electronics products and offers a budget range of re-branded multimeters for around the $20 mark. Prices are low largely due to their online persona, which doesn’t necessarily mean their products suffer. The feature-packed mini MSR-P600 is a popular tester for both entry-level and experienced electricians. These meters are decent starters for trainees and are equally useful as a backup for automotive engineers and electronics technicians.
What to Look for in a Multimeter?
A DMM is an essential item for the electrician and non-electrician alike. The choice can seem overwhelming, but as long as you know the basics, it’ll be easier to pick the right meter.
They are not made equal. Although cheaper meters have come a long way over the past few years, it generally pays to dig deep as those with a higher dollar value have a better build quality, better protection and are more accurate.
This is essential for electricians and technicians working with mains voltage / current and who may need more features. Tradesmen in industry should stick to industrially-rated, CATIII or CATIV multimeters.
This would be overkill for the hobbyist, who may only need one for testing voltage, resistance and continuity. Features like capacitance, frequency, temperature inputs and True RMS might not be necessary in this instance.
All multimeters can measure voltage, continuity and resistance. The ability to measure current is usually less pressing for general purpose work, but, as a point of reference, look at a CATII meter that at least has a milliamp range. The higher safety-rated CATIII and CATIV multimeters can usually measure AC and DC mains current continuously.
The following are essential features in a quality meter for the electrician. Many of these might not be necessary for basic home / vehicle diagnostics and should be taken as guidance.
This is the internal resistance of the actual testing circuit of the multimeter and is important. The higher the better, so the meter itself has a minimal affect on the overall results when measuring resistance in a given circuit. The only caveat being if you plan on testing systems where ghost voltages induced through neighboring circuits may be an issue, where an additional low impedance mode would be useful.
Input Impedance in general should be at least 10MΩ (megohms).
Up to 600V AC / DC, CATIII rated.
A bonus if it extends into the millivolt (mV) range.
Up to 10A continuous AC / DC amps. There should be separate, fused inputs for amperage (A) and milliamp (mA) ranges – separate jack sockets. Fuses should be of the quick blow, non-destructive ‘HRC’ ceramic type.
Those into HVAC and electronics will need a micro-amps (μA) range.
Resistance input range ideally upwards of 20-40MΩ, which could be a requirement when testing circuit board components.
For when measuring breaks in circuits / wires, the unit should have a good beeper with a quick-latch reaction time. Cheaper multimeters tend to suffer on continuity test speed. Linemen in particular need fast continuity. The Flukes tend to be the sharpest.
Aside from electronics, motor starters and HVAC, not really essential, but would ideally extend to the nano-farad (nF) or even pico-farad (pF) range.
If needed, the wider the bandwidth range the better – from 10Hz to 1MHz, for example.
The time or period that a machine/device is running/’on’ time, usually expressed as a percentage. Good for checking motor run-time, but the average user will unlikely need it.
The higher the testing voltage, the better. Most multimeters have a diode test output of around 2V. Although okay for many tasks, some LEDs require a higher test voltage – 3V is better. Certainly not essential but almost all multimeters will include a diode checker.
Rarely needed unless you are keen on electronics, though an oscilloscope would give a more accurate result. Some cheaper multimeter brands might include a transistor checker as a tempter to divert attention from their limited specs.
Stick to testers that auto range, which is usually standard nowadays. This means that you don’t need to manually select an individual range within a range (eg: up to 200V, or 20kΩ). The meter will determine the right one for you and display the result automatically with the correct decimalization.
NOTE: be sure to check the auto ranging response time – really needs to be less than a second. Again, Fluke are generally quick and cheap multimeters struggle.
Manual Ranging pros & cons
With manual ranging, you might need to know a bit about electrics to get going, since you will have to select the right range level before you can measure a circuit correctly.
Example: a 9V battery would be measured by selecting the 20V DC voltage range. Those with experience may prefer it, however, since reaction times are usually faster. The ideal scenario would thus be to have an auto ranging multimeter with a RANGE button that lets you switch to manual mode.
Further to auto ranging, this setting will determine whether a circuit is AC or DC and display the result in its correct range. This is ideal when you’re not sure of the supply voltage type and could limit potential damage to the meter.
Aside from electronics, most applications won’t need super accurate tolerance. Most of the budget, standard meters on the market today average around ±1 to 1.5% across the various input ranges (volts, amps, ohms, etc).
Budget doesn’t necessarily mean inaccurate, although a top-branded 20,000-count multimeter, such as Fluke’s 87V, may have an accuracy rating inside of ±0.05% on DC volts. Bearing in mind it will cost you a pretty penny for the privilege.
Most cheaper meters ‘average’ out the RMS value of the equivalent DC voltage when measuring AC voltage, but present their results based on a perfect sine wave. The reading will be accurate as long as the wave is uniform. If it is erratic, or ‘changed’, such as that of an inverter output voltage, the reading will probably be out.
Seen on most professional multimeters, True RMS gives a more accurate AC reading for most types of waveform, including square wave.
NOTE: On deciphering which multimeter is more accurate, RMS type is not something you need to be overly concerned about if merely wanting a meter for hobbies, homes and vehicles.
Multimeters are categorized, or rated – that is, what voltage/current they can safely measure together with what level of voltage surge they can withstand. If starting out and diagnosing car electrical faults, for instance, you could use a CAT-I or CAT-II meter for continuity work. HVAC technicians would at least want a CAT-III meter.
Category I (CAT-I)
These are best for electronics or other low voltage circuits, such as in vehicles and systems stepped down from mains. CAT-I multimeters should not be used to test mains supply.
Category II (CAT-II)
Good for single phase mains, such as home appliances, power tools and lighting circuits, for example. They should not be used to test mains directly, such as socket outlets.
Category III (CAT-III)
Okay for testing single and low current three phase circuits, including motors, distribution boards, control panel boards, and sockets and switches, etc.
Category IV (CAT-IV)
Can safely accommodate higher current/voltage levels (to 600V) and should feature good overload/spike protection circuitry. For testing service supply panels, switch gear and heavy duty machinery, etc.
International Electrotechnical Commission Voltage Ratings
|Category I Peak
|Category II Peak
|Category III Peak
|Category IV Peak
More on IEC category ratings…
NOTE: CAT-II-rated meters and above should have input protection built in – power resistors, thermistors, MOVs and the like.
If you are unsure, it is best to go with a higher category rating. Serious hobbyists might want to consider a CAT-III, with HRC (High Rupture Capacity) fuses installed.
Price usually dictates quality, as of course does category rating, feature-set and specifications. For instance, CAT-I meters built for testing basic, low-voltage circuits won’t be as robust as CAT-IV meters for three phase power systems.
In many cases, you’d want a rugged testmeter that comes with shock protection in the form of a rubber holster. These are complimentary on most brands’ models upwards of the $30 mark. Also, look for nicely made jack sockets with rubber shrouds protecting the terminals.
It is worth researching multimeter reviews that make note of the quality of the circuit board and components, as well as plastics used in the construction of the enclosure. Over-current and over-voltage protection should be incorporated to protect the device, the user and the environment.
The quality of the display on a $30-$50 multimeter is typically quite good today, and will usually be backlit. Keep an eye on the refresh rate, though – how often the display updates and thus how responsive it is to changing values. Higher end ones usually have higher refresh rates (around three or four times per second), along with a higher resolution (count). Newer meters also often have a bar graph that will show fluctuations in real-time, much like an analog meter.
It is worth pointing out that many cheaper multimeters can lose their charge quite quickly and you might find yourself forever opening up the back to replace the (relatively expensive 9V) batteries. Try to choose one with a battery life of at least 200 hours – usually specified without backlight. AA batteries are more efficient than 9V batteries and are cheaper.
NOTE: Auto shut-off conserves battery life and is an important, often overlooked feature.
Pay attention to how the battery is accessed. Having to open up the case to change the battery is not only a pain, but, on the cheap ones in particular, the screws are prone to stripping their fixings. Multimeters with a separate battery compartment and solid terminals to the circuit board are much more user-friendly.
The test probes should be of the silicon insulated type, supple, of good gauge and incorporate protective finger guards – essential in mains test meters. Cheapo models are notorious for including cheap probes on short leads. If you are testing circuits rated to category II and above, ensure you have a good set of leads to protect against shocks, or consider buying a replacement pair.
Digital vs Analog
Digital all the way! They both measure and display the same values, though digital multimeters employ square waveforms to analyze inputs, whereas analog multimeters use sine waves. Analog is old hat and really only beneficial for those measuring changing values.
Digital offers many pluses. Most of all they are more accurate, easy to read and display precise values. They are also more robust to bangs as well as overloads, such as when testing under the wrong input range. Digital multimeters also generally offer more functions.
Although they are often cheaper, analog models can be unreliable as they are less accurately read at distance. In addition, they tend to have lower input impedance, meaning their very measuring of resistance in a given circuit might skew results. Digital meters tend to have high input impedance, which is especially important when testing electronic circuitry. Analog devices are also more easily damaged through electrical overload and falls.
Where analog excels is in measuring fluctuating voltage, current or resistance, but bear in mind that a basic oscilloscope will give a far more accurate reading. In addition, the better digital meters now have fairly reliable bar graphs displays.
Martin gives a good description of the pros and cons here:
Which Multimeter Brand?
Professionals tend to shop by brand. Those looking for reliability will often go for Fluke as they have the reputation and prestige to deliver a sound product. Similarly, Gossen Metrawatt, Agilent and Amprobe also produce high quality.
But do you really need high end? It depends what you’re doing. The likes of Extech, Klein Tools and INNOVA produce decent quality multimeters for standard electrical work. However, those testing three phase power in a humid factory environment would be better served, and safer, buying the best.
Price and Value for Money
Similarly, if price is a major consideration, at least go for a brand that has been around for a while and avoid going generic. They may seem to have all the bells and whistles, but you could almost guarantee that the enclosure, circuit board components, specifications, functions, accuracy and overall reliability will be sub-par.
In time, these cheapos will let you down and can be darn right dangerous. Be dubious of $10 multimeters that are built for anything but light CAT-I use.
Reliability is important for troubleshooting anything from car batteries and socket outlets to control panel board faults. You could get a cheaper meter for low voltage testing, but be aware it might not have handy features like auto shut-off.
Where to Buy
Whatever the meter and whichever price bracket you aim for, unless you absolutely must try a device out, there really is only one way to buy nowadays. Shopping online is easy, generally safe and often the best way to save money.
Amazon is the world’s biggest eCommerce store and has the best prices on most of its listings, including multimeters. The order process is easy, there are genuine reviews from verified customers and you can feel confident in buying from them. Amazon also typically carry manufacturers’ warranties and accept returns.
“I’m Still None the Wiser! “
If you’ve read this far, are totally flummoxed and still don’t know which multimeter to choose, don’t worry, just bear these few pointers in mind before buying.
What’s it for?: Electronics, car diagnostics, DIY, home electrical maintenance, commercial HVAC, industry?
The Bottom Line
Most people are looking for a basic multimeter to find out if a socket outlet has voltage, to test a battery, or to find a broken wire in a power tool, and so on. In this instance, you won’t need the accuracy and robustness of a high-end device. Thus, consider starting with a cheaper, albeit brand name, model like the Extech EX330, then perhaps upgrade later if you need more features.
If testing three phase circuits, and especially if measuring high current values, then it’s time for a serious tester such as those produced by Fluke or the higher end Amprobes. These are safer and offer more reliability.